flamBOYant

“A designer eveningwear collection inspired by the plumage of male Birds of Paradise, and how it

relates to masculinity both past and present.” - Tommy Heidebrecht

Showing at NYFW Saturday September 7, 2019

Best Senior Collection — Fashion Industry Associates Award

Woolmark Award — Innovative Textile Using Wool

United Fabrics Award — Best Original Jacquard

I had the honor of working with the very talented Jefferson Fashion Design student Tommy Heidebrecht on his senior collection. I was given the challenge of creating a “flamboyant houndstooth”. I melded the shape of the traditional houndstooth with forms inspired by the plumage of the male Birds of Paradise which influenced Tommy’s collection. Through many meetings and technical trials I was able to create the one-of-a-kind textiles he had envisioned for his garment. Image details and construction information below. See full collection here.

Two 60" engineered mirrored repeats were woven for each pant leg.

The textile is a double cloth with three tissue picks and multiple yarns that alternately run as a stuffer or is tacked to the back of the fabric.

A very large box motion was created to slowly fade out the black tissue pick once it was only tacking on the back. This not only prevented a visible line in the textile but also allowed the top of the pants to match exactly the white cloth of the jacket.

The jacket was created from one continuous woven jacquard. This textile is a double cloth with a stuffer. The two fabric layers alternated locations on front and back between the motifs and the ground fabric in order to emphasize the quilted quality of the textile.